Pets Care

Are you planning a trip? Are you taking your ferret along? Before you do, there are certain things that you must know. Traveling with a ferret is different than traveling with a cat or a dog.

First, if you are taking a car trip, your ferret will enjoy going, but he will have pent up energy that he needs to burn. Make sure that you bring along a harness and leash, and that you plan frequent stops for your ferret to ‘stretch his legs.’

Make sure that you bring along a small traveling cage (you won’t want him loose in the car), food, water, and a small litter box as well.

If you are traveling by air, note that not all airlines will transport a ferret, and your pet ferret may not be welcomed in all countries. In fact, even in the United States, there are laws against the possession of ferrets in some cities – even if you are just visiting. Make sure that you call the game and fish department of your destination city to be sure that your ferret is welcome.

Next, call the airline. Make sure that your ferret can travel on that airline, and inquire about anything that you may need to do to get your pet accepted for transport. If you are going to another country, make sure that you are aware of the laws regarding ferrets, and the laws regarding the admittance of any pet into the country.

As of this writing, pets are allowed in the cargo area of Luxair, Northwest Airlines, and Air Canada. They are allowed in the cabin on Delta Airlines. Ferrets are not welcome on Ryanair, Southwest Airlines, or US Airways.

Regarding import laws, your ferret will not be allowed to enter Australia or Japan. A ferret may be brought into Canada, as long as it is originating from the United States. Otherwise, a Permit to Import is required from the Canadian Food Inspection Agency. Ferrets are also allowed in Europe.

In the United States, ferrets are not allowed in Hawaii or California. Pets are not allowed in the cities of Washington D.C or New York City either. There are many other smaller cities that have ordinances against ferrets, and again, you should call ahead to find out what the law is before you travel with your ferret.

If you cannot bring your ferret along, you can contact your veterinarian about finding a kennel for your ferret while you are gone. Note, however, that any separation from you will upset your ferret, making him feel abandoned.

Take him with you if it is possible and if not, put him in his cage, and ask a trusted friend to come by daily to check on him – or ask them to stay at your house and ferret-sit. At least in this way, the ferret will remain in familiar surroundings, which is a great deal less stressful to him.

When traveling with your ferret, make sure that you inquire about the size of the carrier needed (for airlines), and carry your ferrets vaccination records with you, as well as medical records for any conditions that he might have, in case he needs emergency care.

“Ferrets are smelly.” “Ferrets make the house stink.” These are comments that you will hear from people who listen to myths concerning ferrets. It is true, to an extent. Ferrets are capable of stinking up the place – but only if they are frightened, and not de-scented. Obviously, there are a couple of ways to get rid of this problem – don’t frighten the ferret, and get him de-scented.

De-scenting is a procedure that is done by your veterinary. It is often done when the ferret is either spayed or neutered. The scent glands are simply removed. The scent glands are located right inside of the anal opening. There are two sacs, and these sacs are what produce the very musky scent.

You are not required to have your ferrets scent glands removed. You may be surprised to find that he will rarely – if ever – actually employ his scent glands, as they only do this when they are scared. If you are able to handle your ferret correctly, and keep from startling him, you may never find out what his scent actually smells like.

Most ferrets will only deploy their scent glands when they are attacked, such as an attack by another animal. Furthermore, unlike a skunk’s scent, which just lingers for days, a ferret’s scent will dissipate in a very short period of time – within a few minutes.

The best time to de-scent a ferret is when he is spayed or neutered. This usually occurs when he is between six and eight weeks old. If your ferret is older, do not have him de-scented, as an older ferret will not recover from the surgery as well as a young ferret will. Your ferret will feel like his old young self again within a few days of being de-scented. You may not even have to worry about it. Many ferrets are spayed or neutered – and de-scented – before they ever leave the breeding farm.

You may opt not to have your ferret de-scented. If this is the case, you probably will not regret the decision. However, some ferrets actually have leaky anal sacs, which will emit the scent at all times – even if he is perfectly calm. If this is the case, de-scenting is highly recommended.

Note that all scent glands cannot be removed. Your ferret also has scent glands under his eyes. Fortunately, he cannot emit very much scent from these glands; however he can emit a little. This is why you should pay particular attention to this area when you are bathing your ferret.

Also note that having your ferret de-scented just keeps him from stinking up the place when he is frightened. It does not reduce his body odor. However, ferrets really don’t stink anymore than cats do. They groom themselves often, and as a responsible pet owner, you should bath them at least once a month, but never bath them more than once a week as this will dry out their skin by removing too much of their natural oils.

Just as you have a first aid kit in your home, and hopefully in your car, to help deal with minor emergencies that may occur with you and your family, you should also consider the unexpected needs of your guinea pig and either buy or create a guinea pig first aid kit, which commercially are called Cavy Kits.

A proper cavy kit will contain numerous items designed to help you and your guinea pig through emergencies. Guinea pigs actually can hurt themselves fairly easy, but it usually is minor, and with proper care, should heal quickly.

Your cavy first aid kit should contain a bottle of sterile eye wash. This is useful for removing debris from the eyes, and you will find that you use this more often than you may think. This is one item that is often overlooked when putting together a first aid kit. Benebac is also overlooked, but highly useful, in case your guinea pig ever has problems with digestion.

Because guinea pigs really depend on vitamin C for survival, you should keep sample packs of substances that are suitable for guinea pigs, which contain vitamin C. One such product is Oxbow, which has 50mg of vitamin C. Oxbow also offers sample packs for critical care, which can be hand fed to your guinea pig.

Electrolyte mix is also something that you should consider, in case your guinea pig becomes dehydrated. You may think that you take excellent care of your guinea pig, and that such things are not needed in a first aid kit, but you will have them, should the need for them ever arise.

A common guinea pig injury occurs when you clip his nails too close to the quick. This can quickly lead to infections, and it needs to be treated right away with an antiseptic. This isn’t easy to apply on guinea pigs, but if you use a Styptic Pencil, you will find that this does the trick nicely. You should also have a good supply of sterile gauze pads to cover any wounds. Include Telfa pads as well. Other good selections include iodine pads and sterile wipes.

Because this is a first aid kit for an animal, and not for humans, you should include vet wrap in your first aid kit. This is excellent for protecting wounds on animals. If you aren’t sure where to find vet wraps, look at your local pet store, or ask your veterinarian to order some for you.

Go to your local pharmacy, and purchase several syringes of different sizes. These make administering oral medications easier, in most cases, and can even be used to get water into your guinea pig if he becomes too ill to drink on his own.

Other items that you should include in your first aid kit include rubber gloves (not latex), cotton swabs, and contact information for your veterinarian. Your veterinarian may even be able to supply you with some basic first aid instructions that you can keep in your kit. As you use items in your first aid kit, make sure that you replace them as soon as possible.

Ferrets are excellent pets to have, and quite popular. In fact, in the United States, ferrets are the third most commonly preferred house pet, after dogs and cats. Ferrets are even suitable for people who cannot have a dog or cat because of allergies to pet dander since ferrets don’t produce any dander. Ferrets are essentially the hypo-allergenic pet.

But before you rush out and adopt a ferret, there are many things that you must consider. First, if you have young children in the home, a ferret probably is not the pet to get. It isn’t that a ferret would be a danger to the child – the problem is that the young child might be a danger to the ferret.

Ferrets are not cheap pets to own. Like other animals, they require food, water, and toys, but a ferret will also require a large cage, because you will want to cage it for its own safety when you are not home, and possibly even while you are sleeping. Because ferrets have so much energy, a small cage won’t do. You need a multi-level cage, which costs anywhere from $150 to $200 or more.

Ferrets require the services of a veterinarian. They will need a general check-up twice a year, as well as vaccinations once each year. Ferrets are also prone to certain illnesses – and injuries – and may also require emergency services. The vet bills can really start piling up, and you need to be aware of this, and prepared for it, before you get a pet ferret.

Ferrets require lots of time and attention. They are not suitable for people who are rarely home, or people who don’t have the time to play with them. They are extremely energetic creatures, and very sociable. Without interaction from you, they will not be happy pets.

Ferrets are often like toddlers – and they get into everything. You must ferret proof your home so that the ferret is safe. They investigate everything, and try to carry things to their hidey-holes in their mouths. Like a child, they may swallow small objects, and household cleaners and other chemicals are dangerous to them.

Before you get a ferret, you will need to make your home as ferret-safe as possible. Make sure cabinets where dangerous chemicals and such are not accessible. Ferrets are very smart, and can open cabinets and drawers if they are not secured.

If you do not have small children, you can afford the veterinarian bills, and you have enough time and love to give a pet, a ferret makes an ideal pet. They are furry and loveable. They will love you unconditionally. A ferret is neither like a cat nor like a dog. They do however, fall somewhere between the two when it comes to love and loyalty.

A ferret will never be as obedient as a dog – and never as aloof as a cat. They do their own thing, and are happy to include you when you ask – and will ask for you to include them as well in the things that you do.

Interview with Jedi_sena

My cousin and I are avid outdoorswomen and we have always enjoyed learning about local flora, buying books on edible native plants, and identifying the species on our horseback rides and nature walks and we discuss our finds online.

Having much interest in natural herbs and healthy eating, I easily began to focus on possible sources of food for my pets when I got my first hermit crabs in 2005. I started in my own back yard where I have an apple tree and a Russian olive tree. Apples were on the safe food list so I began feeding these since I trusted that they were next-to-organic being certain that the backyard had not been sprayed w/ any pesticides or fertilized chemically.

The apples were a hit, but the Russian olive tree did not appear on the safe list or the unsafe list. After getting instructions from the Epicurean Hermit web-site owner on conducting food trials, I proceeded with the Russian olive leaf trial which turned out to be a huge hit with my crabs and was deemed safe!

I shared this new information with the crab-keeping community and their positive feedback encouraged me to begin more and more food trials on local Colorado plantlife which also proved successful. My cousin followed my findings with much interest and offered to collect some leaves and berries from a rural area near her home in Washington State.

More food trials began–again with exciting results. Meanwhile I was attempting to assist a new crab owner who was frustrated that her crabs had not eaten any of the so-called “favorite” foods that she was offering. I felt that her crabs were craving something leafy and more like the diet they were accustomed to in the wild, so I suggested she pluck some dandelion leaves from the backyard. She was further frustrated by my advice because she was a city-dweller with no access to safe weeds.

At that moment I realized that I was at an unfair advantage. It was not enough to simply pass on information about these great natural food sources if the average person could not access them. That is how Crabotanicals was born! Our mixes feature wild-harvested leaves, blossoms, bark, and more.

Several products are now for sale at The Happy Hermit (eBay store) and coming soon to The Crabbage Patch. Interest in our products and research is growing rapidly and we are getting a lot of positive feedback. My goal is to quit my job and crab full-time!

More information about the research behind Crabotanical products can be found here:

http://hermitcrabfoodtrials.blogspot.com

Iguanas are probably the most popular lizard kept as a pet today. Many pet stores tell people that they are very easy to care for, but this isn’t true. They actually have very strict care requirements. They also can grow to be extremely large!

Many get baby iguanas not realizing how large they get. They aren’t one of these animals that just grow as large as their tank. When they get bigger, they will need a very large cage, or their own room.

When you select an iguana, try to get one that looks alert and healthy. Make sure there are no sores or abrasions on their body and also look for bright, clear eyes. You should also be sure that the place you get your iguana cleans the cages regularly. If the iguanas are living in dirty conditions, they could very well be sick.

The first thing you will need for your iguana is a cage. If you got a baby, it is best to start with a thirty to fifty gallon aquarium. As your pet grows, it will need a larger cage. You will probably end up having to build a custom cage. The cage needs to be at least one and a half times longer than the length of the lizard, two thirds times wider than the length of the lizard and the same height as the lizard’s length. Iguanas love to climb, so try to get a tall cage.

You will need to keep some kind of substrate at the bottom of the cage. Artificial turf, orchid bark, carpeting, alfalfa pellets, or newspaper all work well. Do not use wood chips or cedar chips. Bark and wood chips can attract insects while cedar chips can be toxic.

In the cage you will need to have branches set up for your iguana to climb on. Iguanas live in trees in the wild, so branches are a necessity. The branches should be large enough so that the iguana doesn’t have trouble laying on them. Hot rocks are not recommended because they can cause burns.

Iguanas need to be kept warm in order to be healthy. Keep a thermometer in their cage so you can monitor the temperature. The cage should be kept around 85 degrees in the day and in the low 70s at night. You will also need a spot close to the heat source where your iguana can lay in the heat. This basking spot needs to be between 95 and 100 degrees. There should be an area in the cage that is shady so your iguana can go there if they want to get out of the sun.

Iguanas need to be fed a diet that is low in phosphorous, high in calcium and contains Vitamin D3. They should be fed lots of greens, such as collard greens, dandelion greens, mustard greens, and turnip greens. Greens should be the large majority of their diet. Fruits and vegetables like squash, yams, zucchini, raspberries, bananas, and blackberries can also be added.

Iguanas don’t actually drink very much. They get most of their water out of the air. You should mist your iguana regularly or put a humidifier in their tank. Humidity in their cage needs to be between 95 and 100 percent.

When you bring your iguana home, let it settle in for about a week. Don’t try to handle it during this time. After that, start to hold it for brief periods daily. Your iguana will soon become much calmer. Stroking their neck and sides also seems to help a lot. Never pick up your iguana by the tail.

To keep your pet happy and healthy, you will need to keep their tank clean, provide food and water and spend as much time with them as you can. You should also find a vet in your area that treats iguanas. Bring your iguana to the vet regularly for checkups.

About the author

Michael Russell

Your Independent guide to Pet Care

The 5-Minute Veterinary Consult: Ferret and Rabbit

The food debate

Cat foods have been used by Ferret owners for many years, but there’s a fair bit of debate about which food is best for ferrets, whether high-quality cat/kitten foods are good enough, and so on. The usual conclusion is that while foods designed for cats probably aren’t the best, many of the foods with ferret pictures on the bags weren’t designed for ferrets either — they were designed for mink or cats and maybe modified slightly, and priced twice as high.

If you choose a food packaged for ferrets, check its label just as you would a cat food. Recommended quality Ferret specific diets include: Eight in One, Marshall, Sheppard & Greene, as well as Totally Ferret.

Many feel that Ferret specific foods are the best food, however these people also agree that cat/kitten foods are entirely sufficient, and that there’s not that much difference between them.

Kitten or cat food

Many people feed their ferret’s high-quality cat food, such as Iams, Science Diet, or ProPlan. High-quality food may cost a bit more than grocery store brands, but your pet will eat far less and be much healthier. Keep in mind also that an 8-pound bag of dry food can last two ferret’s a couple of months, so the cost of feeding them even high-quality food is not very great.

Because of their high protein requirements, you should feed ferrets three to four years old kitten or “growth” foods. Older ferrets may develop kidney problems if given too much protein, so they should be switched to adult cat formulas.

Soft cat food is not good for ferrets, because it generally contains much less protein than the dry kind and because it isn’t hard enough to rub plaque off their teeth which can lead to tooth decay.

However, young kits and those recovering from illness or surgery may need their food moistened at your veterinarian or breeders request. Keep in mind that moistened food spoils much more quickly than the same food left dry, so dump out leftovers every day.

Additional Information

Dog food is NOT acceptable, as it lacks some nutrients ferrets (and cats) need. Among other things, ferrets and cats both need taurine, which is found naturally in poultry; many cat and ferret foods supplement it as well.

Variety and change

In general, feeding your pet a variety of foods, rather than just one brand, may be a good idea. Ferrets are known to be finicky eaters, and if the brand you’ve been using changes or is suddenly unavailable, you could run into problems. To switch from one brand to another, it’s best if you mix them gradually, which should aid in determining what other product(s) your pets will eat, as well as allow the time necessary to successfully complete the process. As your ferret reaches the ‘half & half’ mark, you can slowly decrease and/or eliminate mixing of the two products.

About the author

Matthew Humphries - http://www.ferret.com

Guinea pigs are very lovable animals. They are very affectionate and have their own personalities, which will become very evident within days after you bring them home. They love to snuggle and cuddle. They will live longer than most other small pets, usually five to eight years. Although guinea pigs are naturally healthy animals and rarely get sick, doing your part to care for them can have a direct impact on how long they will live.

However, assuming that because they live in cages, guinea pigs have little or no care requirements is far from true. They need daily care. They rely upon you to give them proper nutrition, exercise them daily, and give them lots of love.

A guinea pig will need fresh food and water every day. While this may seem like a lot of work, making it a part of your daily routine will help it seem easy. In addition, you will receive lots of love from your pig, which will make your sacrifices worthwhile.

Just as with any other animal, before you make a commitment, there are certain questions that you should ask yourself. Here is a list of things to consider as you make your decision:

* Can I provide proper care for my pig every day of its life?

* Am I willing to let him/her live in the room in my house where I spend most of my time?

* Will I commit to feeding my guinea pig a healthy, balanced diet?

* Will I provide my guinea pig with fresh water every day?

* Can I provide him with a comfortable cage?

* Will I remove all soiled bedding every day?

* Can I ensure that she will be kept away from drafts, cold, too much heat or direct sunlight, and other pets?

* Do I have the time to care for and give affection to my guinea pig every day?

* Am I willing to groom him/her regularly, including baths?

* Do I have a place in my home where my guinea pig can exercise daily?

* Am I willing to take him/her to the vet when he/she needs medical attention?

* Does my budget allow for me to provide for all the necessities?

Guinea pigs have many great attributes as pets. They do however, require quite a bit of cleaning, from their cage to the area around the cage, as they will kick out their bedding from time to time. In addition, there are several activities that you should be prepared to perform on a daily basis. Before making a decision to bring a guinea pig into your home, make sure that you are prepared to take on this daily routine.

In the end, for guinea pig lovers like myself, it’s all worth it! All your hard work will be rewarded with love, affection, and companionship. If you are prepared to properly care for your cavy, I higly recommend them as pets!

For everything you ever wanted to know about guinea pigs and more, visit us at http://www.helpyouneednow.com/guineapigs

Poke n’ Peanuts

Just as much as we love to open packages, your ferret too can share in the fun! Take a box you received in the mail that’s filled with ‘packing peanuts’. Be sure to remove any other packing or shipped materials. Toss in your fuzzy! It’s like your ferrets very own ball pit. One caveat however, this is to be a HIGHLY SUPERVISED activity.

If your ferret bores from the swishing, falling, and jumping through their new play land, they may begin to chew on the peanuts. While a great game, these peanuts if ingested could cause a blockage in your ferret, so be sure to play this game with your ferret.

Dusting Mamas Floor

Take your willing fuzzy to a hardwood or vinyl floor setting. Lay them on their back while holding onto their body (hand between front and rear paws on belly). Give em a twirl or paddle them between your two outstretched hands. It’s an activity most ferrets will enjoy, but be sure that it’s right for yours. While this game can be tons of fun, if your ferret doesn’t care for it, try another game.

Pickn� Up Laundry

Place a pair or two of pants, sweats, or even a hooded sweatshirt on the floor in your ferret room. Be sure openings are large enough throughout, so you don’t trap your ferret. Sit back and watch them explore!

Tunnel Racin

Best with more than one ferret, but equally fun if you have only one. Purchase a few feet of clear dryer venting tube from your local hardware store. Place them side by side, with or without curves (design is up to you). Place your fuzzies in and watch them fly through the new toy. May work best if you place a treat at the end of the tunnel as a reward for your guys.

Bag Lady Blues

Yet another use for the multitude of plastic bags we collect throughout the year. Be sure to remove the handles first for safety. Take a bag and taunt your furry guys with it to peak their interest, then allow it float gently to the ground. Watch as your fuzzies go into play mode. While this should provide ample entertainment for your ferrets, be sure to supervise this activity at all times.

Mamas Fantastic Voyage

Using a bath towel ( a throw rug or large pillow case will do), hold one end while allowing the other to drag behind you. Pretty soon you’ll have a furry caravan behind you. The more swishing or swooshing, the better!

Tub Fun

Using your bathtub, make sure its clean and dry, place your fuzzies inside. Many ferrets adore the smooth texture of a tub on their bellies. Add a couple of plastic bags or ping-pong balls and you’ve got yourself a real Bandit rodeo!

Ancient Treasures

Take any square container or even kitty litter box which is not in use. Fill it half-way with some potting soil. Add a ferret or two, or three and watch the digging frenzy commence. Hide favorite toys in the mix to add to the adventure.

About the author

Matthew Humphries - http://www.ferret.com