Pets Care

The 5-Minute Veterinary Consult: Ferret and Rabbit

The typical diet for a pet rabbit consists of water, hay, pellets, fresh vegetables, and its own caecal pellets. Fruit and other treats are given only in very limited quantities, as they can cause obesity in a rabbit. Rabbits require a constant water supply as they dehydrate quickly.

Most sources recommend 80% of the diet should be Timothy hay or another grass hay. Too many vegetables in a rabbit’s diet typically leads to diarrhea and other digestive problems.

Pellets

Rabbits are generally fed a pelleted feed available from pet stores, supermarkets, and farm suppliers. Pellets were originally designed for rabbit breeders for the purpose of providing as much food energy and vitamins as inexpensively as possible. This is optimal when the rabbits are being bred for food or for experimentation.

Most sources recommend a minimum of 18% fiber, low protein (14?15%), and less than 1% calcium. Depending on the amount of vegetables available, an adult rabbit should be given between 20 ml to 40 ml per kilogram (? and ? cup of pellets per 6 pounds) body weight daily. Pre-adolescent and adolescent rabbits (7 months and younger) can be given as much pelleted diet as they can consume, although additional vegetables are preferable to additional pellets.

An older rabbit (over six years) can be given more pellets if they are having difficulty maintaining a steady body weight. Timothy hay-based pellets are great for rabbits that have stopped growing and do not need to gain weight. Alfalfa-based pellets are best only for young, growing rabbits or older rabbits who are under-weight.

Hay

Hay is essential for the health of all rabbits. A steady supply of hay will help prevent gastrointestinal stasis and other digestive tract problems in rabbits. Additionally, it provides a number of necessary vitamins and minerals at a low food energy cost. Rabbits enjoy chewing on hay, and always having hay available for the rabbit may reduce its tendency to chew on other items.

Timothy hay and other grass hays are considered the healthiest to provide the rabbit. As a persistently high blood calcium level can prove harmful to the rabbit, hays such as alfalfa and clover hay should be avoided. Alfalfa is also relatively high in food energy, and a constant diet of it can cause obesity in rabbits.

Treats

Treats are unhealthy in large quantities for rabbits, just as they are for humans. Most treats sold in pet stores are filled with sugar and high food energy carbohydrates. If an owner is determined to feed the rabbit treats, the best treat to provide it with is fruit.

Acceptable fruits (seeds and pits MUST be removed): Banana, Mango, Pineapple, Peach, Apple, Kiwi, Berries, Orange and other citrus fruits.

Pineapple, mango, and papaya all contain a natural enzyme which is thought to reduce hairballs.

Fruits or other treats must be given in moderation, as rabbits easily become overweight and suffer health problems. Their diet should consist of no more than half a tablespoon of fruits or treats per day.

However, fresh fruits should not be given to rabbits under the age of 4 months because their digestive systems are not always developed enough to handle the fruit. It can cause enteritis that causes death within 48 hours.

While a common myth that rabbits should be given lettuce, this is not a good idea because it contains little to no nutritional value for the rabbit and again can cause enteritis which leads to a quick death.

Caecal pellets

Do not be alarmed if you see your rabbit eat some of his feces. These are called cecal pellets, and are a vital part of his diet. Caecal pellets are soft, smelly, clumpy feces, and are a rabbit’s only supply of Vitamin B12. Due to the design of the rabbit’s digestive system, they cannot extract some vitamins and minerals directly from their food.

At the end of their digestive system is an area called the caecum where cellulose and other plant fibers are broken down and ferment. After they have been broken down and passed, a rabbit’s digestive system can finally extract the vitamins from them.

About the Author

Hagar lagarto is a long time Pet lover with many articles and websites on the subject. You can get much more info at http://pet.freehostia.com

I’m afraid of heard the same story too many times. “My rabbit has diarrhea and won’t eat.” “My rabbit died all of a sudden. What happened?” Often the rabbit in question is too young to be away from it’s mother.

Let’s look at the early life of a rabbit to understand what is going on. A rabbit is conceived and born just 31 days later. It is born blind, deaf, and hairless. In warm weather, the baby rabbit will stay in the nest for just two weeks; three weeks in cold weather. Then it will nurse for a few more weeks.

Although some breeders remove the mother when the babies are 5 weeks old, I prefer to see them nurse until at least 7 weeks. If left together, a mother rabbit will often nurse the babies for much longer.

Although the baby will probably begin nibbling on solid food at the age of 3 weeks, he is still nursing. His digestive system must learn gradually how to deal with solid food. The mother’s support helps him deal with all of the changes he has had to make in his short life.

Weaning is a critical time in a rabbit’s life. A number of baby rabbits will develop weaning enteritis and die. Some do not develop the intestinal flora required to eat solid food without the addition of the mother’s milk and cecotrophes.

Separation from mother is another stress in the baby’s life. I remove mother as one step and then separate babies by pairs as a second step. Rabbits are moved to their own cages as a third step to ease the stresses in their lives.

During this calendar year alone, I estimate that I will have raised 300 rabbits by December 31. A number of my two-month old rabbits will die suddenly. I just had two 5-week olds die last week. Although it is always sad to me when I lose a rabbit, it would have been so much worse had the baby been my child’s pet.

When baby rabbits are sold below the age of 8 weeks, all of the stresses of being weaned, being separated from mother, being separated from the litter, plus getting use to a new home, new people, new routines, and new food and water are all affecting this tiny creature that did not even exist several weeks before. Although some do make it through, many – far too many – die.

I don’t even sell 8-week olds anymore. The last one I sold at that age was returned to me three days later, very sick. The rest of his litter, which was with me, was still healthy. The new owner realized that, in her excitement, she had stressed him too much.

Eight weeks in the absolute youngest age at which anyone should even consider getting a new pet rabbit. I recommend three to four months old (and older).

About the Author

Laurie Stroupe lives in Ararat, Virginia, with her husband, four children, and 150 show rabbits. Laurie is an ARBA member who provides pet rabbit care information on her Precious Pet Rabbits website.

Having a pet rabbit can be such a rewarding experience. But with all the breeds, sizes and colors, how do you select the rabbit that is just right for you? This article will help you select that perfect rabbit.

Choosing the right rabbit for you and your family can be a very exciting process. There are currently over 40 recognized breeds of rabbits. Many of the breeds have multiple varieties and colors. Rabbits range in size from 2 pounds to over 10 pounds. So the choices are very abundant.

Many breeders give different answers regarding the preferred gender for a pet rabbit. This is compounded by the individual temperament of the rabbit. Often a doe (girl rabbit) that is not spayed, can become territorial was she reaches maturity. She may nip at you when reaching for her or even her food or water dishes.

Some does will eliminate that aggression when a familiar face does the feeding on a daily basis. Some does we’ve found to be non-aggressive, and yet others can become territorial towards everybody, but that is very rare. If you do not plan to breed your rabbit, and you want a doe, it is best to have her spayed to help reduce the chances that she may protect her den.

Bucks present a different problem all together. Bucks generally are not aggressive. However, spraying can be a problem. When the buck reaches maturity he may start to spray his urine everywhere to let the whole world know he is ready for a mate.

Again, not all bucks will do this, and typically the ones that do, will only do so for a short period of time. This problem can be eliminated by having the buck neutered.

Grooming is another consideration. The wool breeds such as angoras and jersey woolies require extra work in grooming. All rabbits need a good routine of grooming by their caretaker, but the wool breeds require more time because of the nature of their fur type.

The best way to see and find out about rabbits is to attend a rabbit show. At the rabbit show you will find many breeders and most of the breeds of rabbits. To find a show near you visit our calendar page and search for a show in your state.

I would not recommend buying a rabbit without first seeing it, nor would I recommend purchasing a rabbit from a pet store. It would be in your best interest to find a breeder in your area of the breed you think you would like. Visit with that breeder. See what the conditions are in the barn.

Ask if you can hold a rabbit. Watch the rabbit’s reaction to their cage being opened. Rabbits that love attention, will immediately come to the door, some will even make happy grunting type noises. Other rabbits will immediately go to the back of the cage. If a rabbit moves to the back its probably not a good rabbit for you.

Most of all have fun. Enjoy your search for that perfect rabbit. There are many sizes colors and choices and finding the fit for you can be time consuming but will be very rewarding in the end.

About the Author

Rob Usakowski is owner of Three Little Ladies Rabbitry which is run by his wife Cathie and their three daughters. Visit their site Three Little Ladies Holland Lops for lots of rabbit raising information for both pet owners and breeders alike.

One of the most important aspects of properly caring for your pet rabbit is providing him with a healthy, satisfying, and well-balanced diet. Fortunately, doing so is relatively easy, since there is general consensus about what is good for rabbits and a wide range of great food pellet options.

Rabbits can also eat many of the fruits and veggies that you probably have on your dinner table every night (see below for recommendations and portions).

Hay

Hay is an essential component of a rabbit’s healthy diet. One reason why is that feeding a rabbit hay on a daily basis seems to reduce rabbits tendencies to pull out and consume or chew on their own hair, which leads to (sometimes very dangerous) hairballs.

Buy high-quality leafy grass hay, timothy hay or clover hay. Avoid alfalfa hay, as it can sometimes be problematic and has been shown to increase the risk of bladder stones.

FRESH Water

Like all creatures, rabbits need fresh water in order to survive. Change water daily or at least every two days. When you change the water, also wash the water bottle or dish thoroughly to get rid of bacteria.

You may want to use a water bottle that can hang on a cage, as this can reduce the messiness factor. If you prefer to use a bowl, make sure it is sturdy and heavy enough so that your rabbit won’t overturn it.

Yogurt?

Although it may sound funny, rabbits can actually benefit from yogurt just the same way that humans do. Yogurt is proven to reduce the bad bacteria in the body, balancing out the good bacteria in the process. Many pet rabbits seem to like yogurt and accept it as a part of a balanced daily diet.

Chew Toys

As you will quickly learn as a new rabbit owner, bunnies love to bite and chew on things. This is actually essential for good dental health, but the trick is to give them good substances to chew on so they won’t be tempted to eat up your furniture or other, more dangerous substances, like wires or electrical cords.

A dog’s chew toy (on the smaller side) can be a great alternative, one which most rabbits seem to enjoy a great deal. Two more natural options are a large bone from a piece of boiled meat, with the bone marrow taken out, or some apple tree branches (the twigs are great roughage and help keep the bunny’s intestines clean).

Rabbits tend to be quite sensitive when it comes to changes in their diet or feeding schedule. In fact, if there is a sudden change or interruption, a rabbit may lose his appetite or become ill.

Therefore, it’s important to be consistant. Establish a feeding routine that is easy for you to stick to each and every day. Set your timer and fix the feeding schedule into your own everyday routine. Make sure you have enough rabbit food (whether hay, pellets, veggies, etc.) on hand so that you don’t run out unexpectedly.

Feeding your rabbit a consistent, balanced and healthy diet is one of the best ways to ensure that your pet has a long and happy life as your prized companion.

About the author

by Andrea Austin, http://www.rabbits-n-bunnies.com

I find a common misperception among those new to rabbits that larger rabbit breeds are more excitable and smaller rabbit breeds are more calm and docile. Once you come to understand rabbits more, you will find the exact opposite to be true.

Large rabbit breeds can honestly be called gentle giants. While it is true that they are heavier to lift and produce more “fertilizer,” their personalities are well suited for pet-hood. There are a few exceptions, of course.

Checkered giants are both large and a bit excitable. But Americans, American chinchillas, Beverens, English lops, Flemish giants, giant chinchillas, New Zealands, satins and silver foxes are all considered both large breeds and calm in temperament.

You will find several of the smaller breeds to be excitable. These include the dwarf hotot, Netherland dwarf, and Britannia petite.

Smaller breeds with calm personalities include the Dutch and Himalayan, both of which are highly recommended for children. Jersey woolies are another small breed with amazingly sweet personalities.

Another personality type that can make a good pet is the curious, inquisitive group which lies somewhere between the calm and the excitable. My own breed, the Holland lop, falls into this category.

Also curious, but not overly excitable and not too large are the Polish, American fuzzy lop, mini-rex (beware of exposed nails that seem sharper than other breeds), and a new breed, the thrianta (a red rabbit).

There are many combinations of size and temperament besides those mentioned here. And, there are other qualities that make for good pets (including the amount of grooming required).

Knowing the general temperament of a breed of rabbits is no substitute, however, for evaluating the particular rabbit in question. My daughter has a Netherland dwarf who is sweet and calm. He was raised by a youth breeder who focuses on temperament and handles her rabbits frequently.

Most of my Hollands are curious and friendly, but I have had a few who were excitable and downright temperamental. And I’ve had a few who were just absolute teddy bears.

If you are looking for a pet rabbit, begin by researching the general characteristics of the breed, locate a quality breeder, and then carefully evaluate the particular rabbits available to you. A rabbit is a 7 to 12 year commitment. Choose carefully.

About the Author

Laurie Stroupe is the owner of The Nature Trail Rabbitry and breeds Holland Lops, which she shows competitively about 30 weekends per year. She is currently ranked #17 nationally in sweepstakes points. Her newest project is Precious Pet Rabbits, where you can read more about this topic. You can also read her daily blog at http://www.thenaturetrail.com/blog/BLOG

Ideally, the top front teeth of a rabbit will lap over the front bottom teeth. Since rabbit teeth grow, this positioning allows natural wearing to occur as the rabbit eats his food and hay.

Occasionally, the front teeth will butt. If the teeth are wearing normally (you don’t see any really long teeth), I would judge those teeth acceptable for a pet rabbit. Butting teeth is a showing disqualification, so if you are willing to accept a rabbit with non-problematic butting teeth, you may be able to adopt a gorgeous [otherwise] show-quality rabbit.

Sometimes the teeth will butt or overlap the wrong way and not wear normally. In this case, the teeth can be clipped. It only takes a few seconds and is easy to learn how to do; your vet or a breeder can teach you. My vet charges less to clip a rabbit’s teeth than to clip a dog’s nails.

The frequency of the clipping would vary with the severity of the malocclusion. If the teeth need clipping but are not clipped, the rabbit could lose his ability to eat and literally starve to death.

Wolf teeth are misaligned teeth that grow in all types of directions. Simple clipping may not be enough to all rabbits with this sort of teeth problem to live a normal life. In many cases, rabbits with severe teeth problems may require euthanasia.

Checking the teeth is only one part of the pre-purchase evaluation you should perform before you decide to purchase a pet rabbit.

About the Author

Laurie Stroupe is owner of Precious Pet Rabbits, a website dedicated to providing quality rabbit care information. She is also the owner of The Nature Trail Rabbitry, home to her herd of Holland lop show rabbits.